of SaharaSafaris.org/hassaneinbey.
Hassanein turned down an offer by Herri to show him more of these rock carvings. He felt that it was not wise to linger too long in these uncertain circumstances. Hassanein did realize, nonetheless, the great importance of his discovery, for he later wrote: â[I]t was in Uwainat that I made the most interesting find of my 2,200-mile journey. I had heard rumors of the existence of certain pictographs on rocks . . . on the evening of our arrival I set out to find
them.â 9 As we will see, what Hassanein had discovered, although he himself never knew this, was the first irrefutable evidence of a prehistoric presence of humans in this remote part of Egypt. Many decades later, scholars would begin to see in them the origins of the pharaohs and, quite possibly indeed, of civilization as we know it.
Upon his return to Cairo several months later, Hassanein was received with honors and given the title of
pasha
(akin to âlordâ) by King Fouad I, as well as being hailed as a hero by the World Press. The Royal Geographical Society of England gave him the highly coveted gold medal, and he also received a knighthood. Hassanein deserved this admiration and honor. He was now also fully vindicated, and any doubts and misconceptions about his ability as a deep desert explorer were now removed. Rosita, however, was unrepentant. She still managed to cause further embarrassment at the Royal Geographical Society, where she claimed that she had been the second European, after Gerhard Rohlfs, to reach the oasis of Kufraâimplying, of course, that Hassanein, being an Egyptian, did not really count. Many of the members of the Society took offense, and the usually restrained and friendly Gertrude Bell could not help remarking of Rosita: â[I]n matter[s] of trumpet-blowing she is unique. . . . I am sick of Rosita Forbes! And the thing that makes me sickest is that she scarcely ever alludes to that capital boy, Hassanein, who was with her, an Egyptian, without whom she couldnât have done
anything. . . !â 10
THE DESERT PRINCE AND THE ENGLISH PATIENT
Another Egyptian of similar impeccable breeding immediately followed in the footsteps of Hassanein. This was the heir to the throne of Egypt, Prince Kemal El Din Ibn Hussein. Prince Kemal, who had received his education in Austria, refused the throne in order to pursue a career as a desert explorer and cartographer. Inspired by the recent exploits of Hassanein, Prince Kemal set about organizing and financing his own expeditions into the Egyptian Saharaâbut this time not by camel caravan, as Hassanein had done, but with automobiles for off-road travel that were specially designed for him by Citroen and Ford. With these vehicles, Prince Kemal set out in 1926 from Cairo to Dakhla, and from there into the deep desert southwest toward Jebel Uwainat. Some 400 kilometers (249 miles) beyond Dakhla (and still 200 kilometesâ124 milesâfrom Jebel Uwainat), Prince Kemal discovered an immense mountain range, which he christened Gilf Kebir. Amazingly, back in 1923 Hassanein had missed seeing it because he had traveled south from Kufra to Jebel Uwainat and was thus 100 kilometers west of Gilf Kebir.
The mountain range of Gilf Kebir is 300 kilometers (186 miles) long and some 80 kilometers wide. It is almost the size of Switzerland and, when approached from the west, seems to jut out of the flat desert like a monstrous tsunami in stone. Prince Kemal had much better scientific equipment at his disposal than Hassanein, and he was able to fix firmly all these new locations, including the peaks of Jebel Uwainat, on the ordinance map of Egypt. He missed seeing, however, the extensive prehistoric rock art that is found on the west side of Gilf Kebir. This was discovered later by another explorer whom Prince Kemal would actually sponsor: none other than the enigmatic and colorful Count Lazlo Almasy, a Hungarian aristocrat who, among many other