diner’s menu had all the classics—omelets, colossal sandwiches, burgers—but the specialty was meatloaf. Jack ran the front of the house while Rocco handled the kitchen. Jack said that as soon as he tasted the meatloaf that Rocco and their father developed, he knew they had their signature dish. Packed with rich flavor, their tender, moist version is sure to comfort any hungry soul.
In the test kitchen, I learned that, unlike most people, Stephanie and Miriam don’t have fond childhood memories of meatloaf. Miriam’s mom cooked it only once and it was so bad she never made it again. Stephanie’s mom made a great meatloaf but it was one of the few meals that Stephanie refused to eat. I liked this challenge—I enjoy taking American classics and giving them a dynamic twist. Meatloaf would be no exception. I gave the meatloaf lots of natural moistness by adding sautéed zucchini, onions, and peppers and went light on the bread crumbs. Balsamic vinegar, grated Parmesan cheese, lots of garlic, fresh parsley, and thyme pump up the meatloaf’s flavor profile even more. The Collucci brothers and I agree that great meatloaf needs to have a good amount of moisture, flavor (it can’t just taste like hamburger), and a great outside texture. Much as you would for tasty and tender Italian meatballs, we used a blend of ground beef, pork, and veal. We found the best way to get a good crust is to shape the loaf and bake it on a baking sheet, not in a deeper pan. This way the meat doesn’t steam in the pan’s confines and the oven’s direct heat can brown its total surface.
Cape Cod can be somewhat desolate in the off-season, but the Collucci Brothers Diner stayed hot all yearlong. We made our trek mid-winter, and while we almost didn’t make it (an ice storm canceled our flight, forcing us into a cab, onto the train to Boston, culminating in a midnight icy drive to our hotel—phew!), we found the Collucci family’s celebration in full swing. (They threw a sixty-fifth birthday party for their father to coincide with their Food Network “special.”)
The Colluccis’ meatloaf was an instant trip down memory lane, and while my souped-up version got a warm reception, the judges went with the good-time guys’ old-time favorite.
Postscript: The Collucci brothers closed their diner in Hyannis when their lease ended but have moved on to bigger and better things—Colluccis’ 4 Bros. Bistro in West Yarmouth, Massachusetts. Have no fear: their “Throwdown Meatloaf” has a place of honor on their new menu.
Bobby Flay’s
Roasted Vegetable Meatloaf with Balsamic Glaze
SERVES 6
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large zucchini, finely diced
1 red bell pepper, finely diced
1 yellow bell pepper, finely diced
1 small onion, finely diced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme leaves
8 ounces ground pork
8 ounces ground veal
1 pound ground beef chuck
1 cup panko (Japanese) bread crumbs
½ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese
1 cup ketchup
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1. Preheat the oven to 425°F.
2. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. Add the zucchini, red and yellow bell peppers, onion, and salt and pepper to taste, and cook until almost soft, 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and ¼ teaspoon of the red pepper flakes, and cook for 30 seconds. Remove from the heat and let cool.
3. Whisk the eggs, parsley, and thyme together in a large bowl. Add the pork, veal, beef, bread crumbs, cheese, ½ cup of the ketchup, the 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, and the cooled vegetables, and mix until just combined. Mold the meatloaf into a 12-inch-long, 6-inch-wide loaf on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
4. Whisk the remaining ½ cup ketchup, ¼ cup balsamic vinegar, and ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes together in a