called Paso Robles, where we spent the night. Early next morning we headed east into ranch country across dry brown hills on bumpy two-lane blacktop in search of a wide spot in the road called Parkfield. Our map showed it smack in the middle of nowhere about halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles.
Roughly thirty miles (50 km) east from Paso Robles we passed a road sign that told us we had found what we were looking for. Parkfield had a population of thirty-four, not counting cattle, and stood 1,520 feet (463 m) above sea level. We pulled up in front of what looked like an old ranch house made of square-cut timbers the color of creosote with a wide veranda, a corrugated metal roof, and a big stone chimney. Out front, in a tidy patch of unnaturally green grass, stood a tall wooden cowboy carved from a log and bolted to a stump with a small wooden dog at his knee.
In a gravel parking lot stood the rusty iron hulk of what used to be a water tower. In a curvy flourish of creamy white letters, a hand-painted sign read âThe Parkfield Cafe.â Under that, in slightly smaller print, was the proclamation âEarthquake Capital of the World. Be Here When It Happens.â
Farther down the road we found the man we were looking for. USGS technician Rich Lichtie was waiting for us beneath a one-lane
bridge that spanned a gully where Little Cholame Creek trickled west toward the sea. Lichtie fit the landscape in his baseball cap, blue chambray work shirt, jeans, and cowboy boots. His windburned complexion and red walrus moustache allowed him to blend in with the surroundings even better. No labcoated scientist from the big city, Lichtie was the guy in charge of all the USGS equipment that was jammed into the ground along both sides of the fault, and he clearly spent a lot of his time outdoors.
Of all the places he might have arranged to meet us, he had chosen this bridge for a reason and wanted us to see it from below. So we unpacked our gear and trudged down into the gully for a closer look. Thatâs when Lichtie explained that this big ditch was part of the San Andreas, that the bridge literally crossed the fault, and that the last Parkfield event, back in 1966, had torn the old bridge off its foundations.
We were looking at a replacement span that already showed signs of stress. Doug, my cameraman, got a telling close-up of one big bolt holding two heavy steel girders together by no more than a few threads. The two main sections of bridge deck had already been pried apart far enough for sunshine to burn through a gap between the beams. It was a crude yet graphic display of creep along the fault.
Lichtie took us up the road to a cow pasture, where we hiked across the dun-colored grass toward a dry gulch with a storm culvert dug vertically into the earth. When he removed the cover, we could see a metal platform bolted to the corrugated wall of the culvert with a cable-and-drum contraption that looked like something a kid might build with an erector set.
Halfway down the culvert was a circular hole cut into the earth several feet below the surface, where a horizontal plastic drainpipe extended toward the far side of the gulch. Inside the pipe was a pencil-thick braided steel cable that looked like a buried trip wire. Lichtie called it a creepmeter and explained that it was pretty much what it looked likeâa wire sixty-five feet (20 m) long, stretched across the
fault and connected to a strain gauge (in a toolbox at the bottom of the culvert) capable of measuring even a few fractions of an inch of slip along the plates.
Next Lichtie took us to a nondescript shed in a grove of walnut trees, halfway up the side of the gulch. When he unlocked the door we saw what looked like a high-end amateur telescope, with a white steel barrel the size of a small cannon, mounted on a high-tech tripod anchored to a concrete pad with a small spotting scope bolted on top like a rifle sight. He switched on the power and a