See ya.â Booger kicked into the wave.
Kai waited outside. A guy who had brown dreadlocks last year could have bleached them blond, or gold, this year. Could have sold the old BMW and gotten a Jeep too. Shauna got back out and sat up on her board next to him.
âDid you see?â she said. âItâs always the same. I catch the wave, but all I can ever do is ride it straight in.â
âThere are some things you could do differently,â Kai said.
âLike what?â
âWell, first of all, you should be looking over your shoulder as you paddle, so you can position yourself for the wave. It would help a lot if, instead of lying flat on the board, you arched your back. That makes it easier to look behind you. And at your stage you donât really want to catch the wave at the peak. Youâre better off on the shoulder. And since these waves arenât very big or fast, you could take off on an angle so that youâre already a little bit turned into the wave. And youâre not really popping up. Youâre just getting to your knees and waiting, then standing up. Thatâs a bad habit. Youâre better off learning to pop right up.â
âIs that all?â Shauna pouted.
âHey, you asked,â Kai said.
âOkay,â she said. âArch back, look behind, take off on the shoulder on an angle, pop right up. No knees. Piece of cake.â
âGive it a shot,â Kai said.
A small wave was coming. Shauna started paddling and looked over her shoulder to position herself. She angled the board, caught the wave, and promptly rolled over sideways.
A moment later her head popped out of the suds. She grabbed her board and gave her head a shake, sending a spray in the air, climbed on and started to paddle back. Meanwhile Kai looked at the shore. That strange, twitchy guy from the other morning was back, standing at the waterâs edge, looking out at them. Even from a hundred yards out in the water, Kai could see him hopping up and down, his head rolling and snapping, his hands fluttering as if he couldnât control them.
Shauna paddled out beside him.
âYou ever see that guy before?â Kai asked her.
âNo, but Iâm pretty new around here,â she said. âWhatâs wrong with him?â
âI donât know,â Kai said. âHe came up to me the other day on the beach acting really strange. It was like he was trying to talk, but all he could do was make these weird sounds.â
âMaybe heâs, like, got something wrong with him,â Shauna said.
âThatâs what I was thinking,â Kai said.âMakes you wonder if he should be alone on the beach.â
They were both quiet for a moment. Then Shauna said, âSo what did I do wrong that time?â
âA little too much angle on your takeoff,â Kai said. âTry for a little less next time.â
They waited for the next half decent wave to come in. Kai swung his head back and forth, looking for a wave, then looking at the strange guy on the beach. A wave came and this time Shauna caught the shoulder with a little less of an angle. It looked like she was about to pop up when she lost her balance and fell.
Back in the soup again.
But this time when her head popped up, she had a big grin. Kai waited while she got on her board and paddled back out.
âI felt it!â she said excitedly. âI really did! Like for a second I was actually going sideways in the curl! It was so cool!â
âWhat happened?â
âI tried to get up and the water just ripped my hand off the rail and I fell.â
âYou gotta keep your hands off the rail,â Kai said. âTry planting them flat on the deck whenyou pop up. Kind of like doing a push up.â
By now Bean and Booger had come back out.
âGuys, watch this!â Shauna said eagerly. Another wave was coming and she started to paddle into position.
âHowâs it