Fast Food Nation: What The All-American Meal is Doing to the World by Eric Schlosser Read Free Book Online Page A

Nixon era. It resembles the American embassy compounds that always used to attract antiwar protesters, student demonstrators, flag burners. The eighty-acre campus of Hamburger University, McDonald’s managerial training center, is a short drive from headquarters. Shuttle buses constantly go back and forth between the campus and McDonald’s Plaza, ferrying clean-cut young men and women in khakis who’ve come to study for their “Degree in Hamburgerology.” The course lasts two weeks and trains a few thousand managers, executives, and franchisees each year. Students from out of town stay at the Hyatt on the McDonald’s campus. Most of the classes are devoted to personnel issues, teaching lessons in teamwork and employee motivation, promoting “a common McDonald’s language” and “a common McDonald’s culture.” Three flagpoles stand in front of McDonald’s Plaza, the heart of the hamburger empire. One flies the Stars and Stripes, another flies the Illinois state flag, and the third flies a bright red flag with golden arches.
    You can buy bean-bag McBurglar dolls at McStore, telephones shaped like french fries, ties, clocks, key chains, golf bags and duffel bags, jewelry, baby clothes, lunch boxes, mouse pads, leather jackets, postcards, toy trucks, and much more, all of it bearing the stamp of McDonald’s. You can buy T-shirts decorated with a new version of theAmerican flag. The fifty white stars have been replaced by a pair of golden arches.
    At the back of McStore, past the footsteps of Ronald McDonald stenciled on the floor, past the shelves of dishes and glassware, a bronze bust of Ray Kroc marks the entrance to his museum. Kroc was the founder of the McDonald’s Corporation, and his philosophy of QSC and V — Quality, Service, Cleanliness, and Value — still guide it. The man immortalized in bronze is balding and middle-aged, with smooth cheeks and an intense look in his eyes. A glass display case nearby holds plaques, awards, and letters of praise. “One of the highlights of my sixty-first birthday celebration,” President Richard Nixon wrote in 1974, “was when Tricia suggested we needed a ‘break’ on our drive to Palm Springs, and we turned in at McDonald’s. I had heard for years from our girls that the ‘Big Mac’ was really something special, and while I’ve often credited Mrs. Nixon with making the best hamburgers in the world, we are both convinced that McDonald’s runs a close second… The next time the cook has a night off we will know where to go for fast service, cheerful hospitality — and probably one of the best food buys in America.” Other glass cases contain artifacts of Kroc’s life, mementos of his long years of struggle and his twilight as a billionaire. The museum is small and dimly lit, displaying each object with reverence. The day I visited, the place was empty and still. It didn’t feel like a traditional museum, where objects are coolly numbered, catalogued, and described. It felt more like a shrine.
    Many of the exhibits at the Ray A. Kroc Museum incorporate neat technological tricks. Dioramas appear and then disappear when certain buttons are pushed. The voices of Kroc’s friends and coworkers — one of them identified as a McDonald’s “vice president of individuality” — boom from speakers at the appropriate cue. Darkened glass cases are suddenly illuminated from within, revealing their contents. An artwork on the wall, when viewed from the left, displays an image of Ray Kroc. Viewed from the right, it shows the letters QSC and V. The museum does not have a life-size, Audio-Animatronic version of McDonald’s founder telling jokes and anecdotes. But one wouldn’t be out of place. An interactive exhibit called “Talk to Ray” shows video clips of Kroc appearing on the
Phil Donahue Show
, being interviewed by Tom Snyder, and chatting with Reverend Robert Schuller at the altar of Orange County’s Crystal Cathedral. “Talk to Ray” permits the viewer