â restaurant scolaire â (school restaurant) sums it up perfectly.
Philippe and Janine scanned the menu, clucking cheerfully at their favorites. But the list struck me as ludicrous. Beets? Fresh fish? This sounded like a meal in a Michelin-starred restaurant, not food for five-year-olds. And certainly not for my five-year-old.
âUm,â I said hesitantly, âsomething seems to be missing. Thereâs only one choice every day.â I was thinking of school cafeterias back home, where kids always had a choice, although one that was often admittedly dubious from a nutritional perspective: between strawberry and chocolate milk, for example, or between pizza and hot dogs.
âEveryone eats the same thing, bien sûr !â replied my husband. I had already learned that the phrase bien sûr (âof courseâ) usually implied I had unknowingly committed some kind of social blunder about something that seemed blindingly obvious to the French.
âBut what if the kids donât like whatâs being served that day?â I asked. This question gave rise to odd looks from the parents shepherding their children through the school doors.
âThey go hungry!â Janine replied, looking impatient.
A story from Tra la lire (Franceâs most popular magazine for preschoolers) popped into my head. In the story âLa journée du NON!â (The Day of Saying NO!), cheeky little Michel is having a âNOâ day. He says âNOâ to getting dressed and goes to school in pajamas. He says âNOâ to eating lunch at the cafeteria (radishes, sausages, mashed potatoes, and ice cream) and then goes hungry all afternoon. Michel feels sad, but his little friends (who ate all of their lunch) donât feel sorry for him, and neither do his parents. When I had first read this story, I had dismissed it as cruel and unbelievable. But I now realized with a sinking feeling that the French didnât see it that way.
âBut this is ridiculous,â I snapped. âSophie only likes pasta for lunch. Sheâll be starving!â This was true. Despite my best efforts, Sophie refused to eat anything but pasta at lunchtime. And it had to be made in precisely the same way: with olive oil (definitely not butter) and liberally sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. The fact that the local grocery store did not carry Parmesan had not deterred me from continuing to make Sophieâs favorite dish once we arrived in France. I was proud of my small triumph in charming the initially gruff grocer into placing a special order for âSophieâs cheese.â
âSchool is about learning lots of things, including how to eat what is put in front of you,â replied Janine. (Note to self: Next time, donât invite mother-in-law along for first day of school). I was cornered. The problem was that my husband and I had agreed that Sophie should eat lunch at school. This idea had originated with Janine. âEating is central to French culture,â she declared soon after we arrived. âAnd Sophie will not make friends unless she stays to eat at the cantine .â So we had signed her up to eat meals there every day. At the time, it had sounded like a good idea. We had talked to Sophie about the cantine , and played it up: think of all the fun youâll have with your new friends! Now I was having second thoughts. But it was too late to back down.
We walked down the hallway to Sophieâs classroom, where her teacher stood at the door welcoming the students. There was a long line, which moved slowly. As we got closer to the front of the line, I found out why. We watched as each child eagerly approached the teacher to be kissed on each cheek. Some of the parents kissed the teacher as well, whereas others shook her hand. This was accompanied by pleasantries about the summer holidays. After a few minutes, the child moved into the classroom and the parents gracefully retreated.
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