at John, but he refused to meet my eye.
âWhere are you living?â James asked. He had been sitting all the while in a large overstuffed chair which seemed to hold his tiny body captive. In the deepest chair, in the darkest corner of the room, heâd become inconspicuous and now I could see little more than the narrow face. However, I was grateful for his intervention.
âIâm staying at the Landdrost.â
âThatâs the new hotel on Plein Street opposite the park,â John said.
âBob Foster stayed there,â Molefe said.
âDo you plan to write a book about South Africa, after your visit?â Obie asked, smiling his soft smile.
âItâs very possible.â
âHow do you plan to see the country and the people? Will you just wander around by yourself or will you be shown, officially?â
âWhichever way will help me see what I want to see,â I said. âI was told in New York that the Information Office would give me any help I need. Iâd be very grateful if any of you can give me any leads.â Maybe I was missing something here. Could be that these fellows were trying to be helpful, in their own way. What was it Helen Suzman had said about them not trusting me? Maybe that was it. Perhaps theyâd learned to be damned careful, even with other Blacks. Well, they had a perfect right to question my motives, but I wished it could have been done in a more friendly manner.
âThe Information Office!â he exclaimed. âSo youâll be given the conducted tour and shown only what they want you to see. The white tour. Then youâll go back to where you come from and say South Africaâs a lovely place.â
âLook, Iâm a stranger here. I donât know my way around, so Iâll have to depend on someone to tell me things. If you donât trust the official line, why donât you help? Why donât you show me what you think I ought to see?â
âThe Landdrost is a far cry from the way Blacks live in this country,â Kebo chimed in.
âI have no choice but to stay at the Landdrost.â
âWhy donât we cut the shit and tell our brother what itâs really like to be black in this place. If heâs willing to listen. After all, heâs come to see us, so letâs tell him what itâs like to be treated like shit in the land of his forefathers.â Kebo stood up, looking large and threatening as the light caught the shiny smoothness of his massive forearms. âI read your book, my brother. It hurt you when you couldnât get the job you wanted, because of your black skin. You think thatâs something? Here you wonât even be allowed to apply. Here, no Black would dare raise his ambitions that high. Any job higher than shit carrier is reserved for the white man. By law.â
Reaching under his caftan into a pocket of his trousers he produced a flat, worn little book and flicked it open before my face.
âThis is what every black man and woman is reduced to in this place. This thing. It governs our lives. Because of it, youâre nothing. Without it, youâre less than nothing. Man, you could leave your country thousands of miles away and come here, just because you wanted to see how we live! All you needed was a visa. We canât move a single step without this thing, day or night.â
I wanted to take a closer look at the thing he held under my nose, but thought it unwise to interrupt him. His anger was all the more powerful because it was so controlled.
âListen, brother,â he said, âJohn got in touch with us today and told us you were in town. We wanted to meet you, to meet a black brother who can come and go as he pleases, write as he pleases, think as he pleases. But when we meet you, we realize how it is possible to live differently from the way we are. We give you some shit because we are angry at the difference between you and us.
Aj Harmon, Christopher Harmon