a chaplain, taxidermists, guides and the Harriman family.
Curtis was the youngest and least credentialed member of the expedition, and he brought
along an assistant, Duncan Inverarity, a friend from Seattle. Among those sailing
north were the two best-known naturalists in America, John Muir and John Burroughs,
both long-bearded and long-winded, called “the Two Johnnies.” Also on board was a
lanky gentleman with faraway eyes whose name was constantly in the papers: Gifford
Pinchot, a man of the woods, from a wealthy family. At night, the ship’s salon hosted
arcane discussions by the scientists, speaking mostly in Latin, “fearfully and wonderfully
learned,” as Burroughs put it. The German-born forester Bernhard Fernow played Beethoven
on the grand piano. Pinchot went on at length about how the outdoors made him feel
most alive. The Two Johnnies argued, a flutter of white beards and spokes of fingers
poking each other’s chests. By day, the scientists would disembark in a particular
bay, and then bring back all sorts of plants, fish and wildlife to the ship, where
they were picked apart. The
Elder
steamed past the rainforest shores of southeast Alaska, up into Glacier Bay, through
the inlets of Prince William Sound, out along the far edge of the Aleutian Islands,
touching the Siberian shore—where Mrs. Harriman wanted to leave a footprint in Russia—and
then back, a nine-thousand-mile round-trip. No junket, the expedition claimed to have
discovered six hundred species new to science, putting some of the best minds of new-century
America to good use.
For Curtis, the
Elder
was a floating university—an Ivy League one at that. From E. H. Harriman he learned
how to operate an audio recording device, a wax cylinder that could pick up and preserve
sound. It was an expensive, newfangled toy for the railroad tycoon and his seven-year-old
son, Averell. Curtis realized the recorder could be used to preserve the songs and
words of the people they observed along the way. Outside Sitka, the machine recorded
a Tlingit chant. Curtis was closest to Grinnell, an easterner who acted more like
a westerner and who conveyed a sense of urgency about the passing of so much that
was original to the continent. Grinnell was a member of the expedition because of
his knowledge of birds, but he seemed more interested in the native people they met.
These villagers in animal skins and furs were ogled at by most of the scientists,
treated like exotic species or fossilized relics. When the ship sailed into a bay
where women were skinning seals, most of the Harriman elites were repulsed by the
smell and carnage. Curtis waded ashore and spent a day talking to the natives and
taking pictures. The photographs show people who seem annoyed, at best, by the intrusion
of well-outfitted Anglos. There are no moonlit silhouettes, no soft-focus portraits.
The photos have a hard, documentary edge.
The Curtis method was simple: get as close as he could. He worked the same way with
the landscapes. In shooting nearly five thousand photographs for the expedition, he
sometimes leapt from iceberg to iceberg, slipped on polished stones in freezing streams
and hiked to the edge of crevasses. Once, in his canoe in Glacier Bay, he tried to
get close to a heaving ice field that was calving big chunks. Crewmen on board the
Elder
watched in amusement as Curtis paddled toward an enormous, berg-shedding glacier.
He took several glass-plate impressions, then moved in closer. And then—horror. A
calf of ice nearly ten times the size of the steamship broke away with a thunderous
crack and splash, sending a wall of waves toward Curtis’s tiny canoe. “About half
a mile of the front fell at once,” Burroughs wrote. The photographer paddled directly
into a wave, a suicide impulse, it seemed. But instead of being crushed and drowned,
Curtis rode the high waters to their crests—to the