Jimenezâs murder, which was poorly handled by police.
Volzâs case is far more complex than that of an innocent abroad who got caught on the wrong side of a Third World justice system. At the time of his arrest he was anything but a carefree surf bum; he had fully embraced Nicaraguan culture, and his mainpursuit wasnât leisure but publishing a bilingual magazine called El Puente (The Bridge), which sought to close the gap between Central and North American cultures. Instead, Volz has become a flashpoint for the tensions between Nicaraguaâs growing community of relatively wealthy Americans and locals who feel left on the sidelines of prosperity.
The trial left many questions unansweredâsuch as why anyone would want to harm Jimenez. How a man could be convicted of a murder that allegedly took place while he was on the phone and having lunch two hours away. Was Eric Volz singled out as part of an anti-American backlashâbacked, perhaps, by the newly resurgent leftist Sandinista party? Or is the dream of surfing and living in paradise simply untenable? The only certainty is that no gringo in Nicaragua believed in that dream more than Eric Volz, and few have suffered a ruder awakening. âThe more politically charged my case becomes, the more nervous I get,â he says.
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T HE ROAD FROM M ANAGUA to San Juan del Sur is like a metaphor for life in Nicaragua: lush and beautiful, but uneven and full of surprises. There are sections of fresh pavement where cars can zoom along, but for the most part itâs a slow, potholed slalom course requiring serious navigation skills.
Once you reach the end of the road, San Juan del Sur sucks you in. Nestled by a horseshoe-shape bay, with fishing boats on the beach, the friendly and relaxed town of 18,000 is not far from some of the best surfing beaches in southern Nicaragua. Thereâs a magical quality about the place that you just canât put your finger on, something that inspires first-time visitors to start dreaming about dropping out of the rat race.
âIâve never once felt unwelcome by the locals; in fact, just the opposite,â says Bryan McMandon, who quit his San Francisco job and moved here in 2004 after visiting on a surfing trip. âEveryone has bent over backwards to help me, especially when I first got here and didnât know a lick of Spanish.â
Real estate offices line San Juan del Surâs main drag, and you can still find a beachfront lot for $75,000âa bargain compared to Costa Rica, just 20 miles to the south. âThe first time we came here we asked Eric about buying property,â says Volzâs stepfather Dane Anthony.
A little more than 20 years ago, though, San Juan del Sur was a Cold War battlefield. In 1984 U.S. forces planted mines along the coast as part of the Reagan administrationâs effort to oust Sandinista leader Daniel Ortegaâwho was recently reelected president.
âItâs real touchy, real delicate here,â says Jane Mirandette, who founded and runs a local library program. âThere are people who donât speak to their neighbor because of what happened in 1980. We have Contras, we have Sandinistas, we have everything in this town. Emotions run really deep, and peopleâs fears run deep too.â
Eric Volz first rolled into town on a backpacking trip in 1998. Like most young norteamericanos , heâd come for the surfing, but that wasnât the only reason. Despite the tabloid headlines calling him âthe gringo murderer,â Volz is only half gringo; his mother is Mexican. He spent a semester studying Spanish in Guadalajara and majored in Latin American cultural studies at the University of California-San Diego. âI think Eric always wanted to get in touch with that part of his heritage,â says his mother. âAnd like everything else he does, he poured himself into it.â
He moved to San Juan del Sur in early 2005 and took a
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