I hop on the board and fight gravity to stand as the wave swells and begins folding overon top of itself. Spray hits my face and my skin. I push with my legs, guiding the board upward to stay inside the curl, then coast off the edge and head behind the churning froth as the wave breaks and rolls into the shore. I drop back down to my stomach and paddle out again.
For about an hour, I paddle out and surf in. A few more good waves arrive as the tide comes in, but most of them are weak and shallow. I ride a few more, loving the smooth feel of the water and the summer sun on my back. Iâm trying to decide if I might luck into another big one, when I spot someone waving from the shore. I sit up, shielding my eyes against the sun reflecting off the water. Itâs Rachel. I ride a wimpy little swell most of the way in before I pick up my board and cross the sand.
âWhatâre you doing here?â
Rachel has on a red bikini top and white shorts.
âLooking for you,â she says. âI figured this is where youâd come if you were mad at me.â She stands with her arms folded across her bare stomach. âBesides, my dadâs home again.â
I spike my board in the sand again. Rachelâs dad has a drinking problem, so she doesnât spend much time at home. My anger eases a little, and I drop down on the towel. She sits next to me.
âIâm sorry if I got you in trouble,â she says. She sounds genuine.
âWhy do you have to be so pushy?â I ask. âI mean, you know I care about you, but itâs like youâre in some sort of race or something.â
âI donât know,â she says in a soft voice.
âYou do, too, Rachel.â
She sits in silence. A breeze plays with her hair.
âThe other night at the arcade you were complaining because I didnât kiss you soon enough. Then you find out my dadâs gone for the day, and youâre in this big rush to come over to my house.â I let out a sharp breath.
Her skin is pale except for the rush of color to her cheeks. Iâve embarrassed her, and I sort of feel bad. Maybe Maggie is right and girls donât know what they want any more than guys do. I feel stupid for getting mad at her.
âMaybe we should just do it right here on the beach,â I say, trying to sound casual. âWe could give the tourists a few vacation memories.â I waggle my eyebrow at her. Rachelâs eyes fly wide open as I untie the drawstring on my still-wet trunks and start sliding them down. I manage to get them to just about mid-hip when she grabs my hands.
âStop it, Michael. Right now.â She laughs, but her face flushes a deeper red.
âAw, come on,â I say. âThey wonât even notice.â I nod over my shoulder at the pale bodies slowly roasting in the sun.
She giggles and then tries to pull up my trunks. âYouâll get us in trouble. And the last thing I need today is to have a beach cop call my dad.â
I laugh and sit beside her. I brush a strand of hair from her face. The waves crash and whisper at our feet. I want this girl, I think, but fear of the unknown stops me. Fear of the consequences, of not being any good at this,of disappointing this girl and having her tell the whole island what a failure I am.
âIâm sorry,â I tell her.
âIâm sorry,â she says. âI love you,â she adds.
âI love you, too,â I say before I realize what Iâm saying. But itâs mostly true. Iâll figure out the rest later. We lie on the beach, listening to the water and the occasional gull, and little kids who run into the waves and shriek as the water races up to meet them. Rachel drifts off to sleep, and I watch her breathe. She is so beautiful, and she can make me so insane. I lie next to her. The sun bakes our skin, but the breeze cools the air around us.
After a while she stirs and sort of blinks her eyes. I smile at her.