TRAVELING AROUND THE WORLD: Our Tales of Delights and Disasters by Shelley Row Read Free Book Online Page B

maybe – we’ll cook barefooted.

Thursday, February 17, 2011
    Rocking Along on the Orient Express  
    The Orient Express conjures up images of old-world luxury, and, of course, Agatha Christie. For years, we dreamed about taking the Orient Express. Mike loves trains and this one is supposedly the best. We were so intent on riding the Orient Express that we scheduled all of our return travel plans around the train dates from Bangkok to Singapore. We planned four days and three nights aboard the Eastern and Orient Express.
     
    Over our months in France, we had many memorable experiences. And yet, occasionally there are special moments that seem unreal. Walking along the train platform next to the dark green and gold train bearing the gleaming brass letters, “Eastern and Orient Express,” was one of those “pinch me” moments. We stepped carefully along green and gold carpet walking past impeccably attired staff in deep green and red Thai silk dresses and vests. They stood alongside the train to welcome us aboard.
     
    I knew Mike would love this trip but, I admit, it caught me by surprise. I was captivated the moment we stepped on board. We boarded the “G” car to find a picture-perfect train – long, narrow hallway, frilly lights overhead, and wood parquet walls and doors. We searched for our cabin as though in a movie. The glass-fronted door opened into our compartment. It was a calming, comforting feast. The parquet walls had inlaid designs behind the cushy upholstered sofa and chair. Two large fringed and curtained windows faced the train station. It was small (although we somehow ended up with a larger cabin than we expected – a blessing) but wonderfully appointed. The tiny bathroom had thick white towels that bore the E&O emblem.
     
    We like others hurried to the open-air observation car to watch as we pulled out of the station. Even now, I feel the excitement of that moment. People on the platform waved and smiled as we – those most fortunate – rode away in our green and gold carriages. It was an auspicious beginning.
     
    We boarded late in the afternoon so soon it was time to dress for dinner. Guests are encouraged to dress up, so Mike donned his new custom-made suit and I a little black dress. Off we went to our reserved table in the dining car. This train car had large windows opening to Bangkok as it receded away. White clad tables with graceful lamps and vases of orchids, held crystal, silver and the E&O china. Service was attentive – the best I ever experienced. And the French chef ensured excellent food! After dinner, there was a cup of coffee and tea in the piano bar before turning in for our first night on the train. Our cabin had been made into two twin beds with crisp white sheets carefully turned down so that the E&O emblem was on top in the center. Delightful . We snuggled into the cool linens. Then, fantasy met reality.
     
    The Eastern and Orient Express starts in Thailand, then passes through Malaysia into the Republic of Singapore – that’s travel through three countries. Importantly, the train tracks were built and maintained by these three countries. We quickly discovered that track standards here are not what they are – say, in France – for the TGV. We rocked and rolled, jerked and jolted through the night. I finally fell asleep when the train stopped for several hours only to wake with a start when it jerked to life again. Neither of us – or anyone else on the train, including the staff – slept much that evening. Plus, we got up early to see the train cross the 300 meter wooden trestle bridge hugging a rock cliff. The trestle was build as part of the Thai-Burma Railway in World War II. This was the so called “Death Railway” because it was built by prisoners of war and the local Thai and Malay people desperate for jobs.
     
    Bleary-eyed, Mike and I disembarked from the train, which was parked partially on the bridge over the river Kwai (yes, the one from the