Cast On, Bind Off by Leslie Ann Bestor Read Free Book Online Page B
Authors: Leslie Ann Bestor
Rows/Odd
K1, *yo, K1; repeat from * across.
K1, *slip next stitch purlwise with yarn in front, K1; repeat from * across.
With yarn in front, slip first stitch purlwise, *K1, slip next stitch purlwise with yarn in front; repeat from * across.
Repeat step 3.
Repeat step 4.
K1, *P1, K1; repeat from * across.
Change to needles used for ribbing. P1, *K1, P1; repeat from * across.
Repeat steps 7 and 8 until ribbing is the desired length. Remove waste yarn.
Working in Rounds
*K1, yo; repeat from * to end. Join into a round, being careful not to twist stitches.
*K1, slip next stitch purlwise with yarn in front; repeat from * around.
*With yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise, move yarn to front and purl the next stitch; repeat from * around.
Repeat step 3.
Repeat step 4.
*K1, P1; repeat from * around. Change to needles used for ribbing. Repeat this round until ribbing is the desired length. Remove waste yarn.
Italian Tubular Cast On
This tubular cast on appears to be like the Provisional Cast On ( page 110 ), but in fact it is not the same, so be careful when making the stitches. Some people use smaller needles through the tubular knit rows to avoid a loose edge, but you want the edge to be stretchy, so make sure to swatch if you are thinking of decreasing the needle size. This cast on does not use waste yarn; just begin with your knitting yarn. Many people love this cast on for its simplicity; itâs nice not to mess with pulling out waste yarn.
Extras Smaller needle size than used for rest of project (optional)
CHARACTERISTICS
⢠Stretchy edge
⢠Edge looks rolled over, seemingly without beginning
⢠No waste yarn to pull out
⢠Difficult to keep stitches from twisting on a circular needle
GOOD FOR
⢠K1, P1 or K2, P2 ribbing
⢠Matching the Tubular Bind Off ( page 200 )
⢠Hats, gloves, mittens, socks, and cuffs
Working the Cast On
Make a slip knot, with a tail that is four times in length what you are casting on. Place the slip knot on the needle and hold the needle in your right hand. Hold yarn in your left hand in the slingshot position ( page 14 ), with the tail over the thumb and the working yarn over the index finger.
Reach the needle tip over the top of the working yarn (over your index finger), down underneath, then over the top of the tail (thumb yarn) and pull the loop back up behind and to the top of the working yarn. This stitch has a bump at the base and resembles a purl stitch.
Reach the needle tip in front of and then under the tail (thumb) yarn, over the top of the working yarn, and pull the loop forward underneath the tail yarn and back up to the top. This stitch is smooth on the bottom and resembles a knit stitch.
Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the desired number of stitches. The last stitch will be unsecured and treated in one of two ways: Twist the yarns around each other before working the next row, or make the last stitch as if doing a Long-Tail Cast On ( page 25 ). This creates a half hitch that secures the yarns.
You now work 2 or 4 rows of tubular knitting. For tubular knitting, you knit the knit stitches and slip the purl stitches purl-wise with the yarn in front. For the first row only, knit into the backs of the knit stitches. (This keeps the stitches from twisting.) If the last stitch was cast on as in step 3, the first stitch of row 1 will be a knit. If the last stitch was cast on as in step 4, the first stitch of row 1 will be slipped purlwise with yarn in front.
Note that you work an even number of rows of the tubular knitting because each row worked is essentially only a half-row knit (you slip half the stitches on each row). The number of rows you work in tubular knit is up to you; more rows means more of a section that is a tube. Then, continue in K1, P1 ribbing.
For K2, P2 Ribbing
Work through the directions to finish the tubular rows. Then, on the next row, you switch stitches to get 2 knits and 2 purls next to each other, as
K1, *yo, K1; repeat from * across.
K1, *slip next stitch purlwise with yarn in front, K1; repeat from * across.
With yarn in front, slip first stitch purlwise, *K1, slip next stitch purlwise with yarn in front; repeat from * across.
Repeat step 3.
Repeat step 4.
K1, *P1, K1; repeat from * across.
Change to needles used for ribbing. P1, *K1, P1; repeat from * across.
Repeat steps 7 and 8 until ribbing is the desired length. Remove waste yarn.
Working in Rounds
*K1, yo; repeat from * to end. Join into a round, being careful not to twist stitches.
*K1, slip next stitch purlwise with yarn in front; repeat from * around.
*With yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise, move yarn to front and purl the next stitch; repeat from * around.
Repeat step 3.
Repeat step 4.
*K1, P1; repeat from * around. Change to needles used for ribbing. Repeat this round until ribbing is the desired length. Remove waste yarn.
Italian Tubular Cast On
This tubular cast on appears to be like the Provisional Cast On ( page 110 ), but in fact it is not the same, so be careful when making the stitches. Some people use smaller needles through the tubular knit rows to avoid a loose edge, but you want the edge to be stretchy, so make sure to swatch if you are thinking of decreasing the needle size. This cast on does not use waste yarn; just begin with your knitting yarn. Many people love this cast on for its simplicity; itâs nice not to mess with pulling out waste yarn.
Extras Smaller needle size than used for rest of project (optional)
CHARACTERISTICS
⢠Stretchy edge
⢠Edge looks rolled over, seemingly without beginning
⢠No waste yarn to pull out
⢠Difficult to keep stitches from twisting on a circular needle
GOOD FOR
⢠K1, P1 or K2, P2 ribbing
⢠Matching the Tubular Bind Off ( page 200 )
⢠Hats, gloves, mittens, socks, and cuffs
Working the Cast On
Make a slip knot, with a tail that is four times in length what you are casting on. Place the slip knot on the needle and hold the needle in your right hand. Hold yarn in your left hand in the slingshot position ( page 14 ), with the tail over the thumb and the working yarn over the index finger.
Reach the needle tip over the top of the working yarn (over your index finger), down underneath, then over the top of the tail (thumb yarn) and pull the loop back up behind and to the top of the working yarn. This stitch has a bump at the base and resembles a purl stitch.
Reach the needle tip in front of and then under the tail (thumb) yarn, over the top of the working yarn, and pull the loop forward underneath the tail yarn and back up to the top. This stitch is smooth on the bottom and resembles a knit stitch.
Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the desired number of stitches. The last stitch will be unsecured and treated in one of two ways: Twist the yarns around each other before working the next row, or make the last stitch as if doing a Long-Tail Cast On ( page 25 ). This creates a half hitch that secures the yarns.
You now work 2 or 4 rows of tubular knitting. For tubular knitting, you knit the knit stitches and slip the purl stitches purl-wise with the yarn in front. For the first row only, knit into the backs of the knit stitches. (This keeps the stitches from twisting.) If the last stitch was cast on as in step 3, the first stitch of row 1 will be a knit. If the last stitch was cast on as in step 4, the first stitch of row 1 will be slipped purlwise with yarn in front.
Note that you work an even number of rows of the tubular knitting because each row worked is essentially only a half-row knit (you slip half the stitches on each row). The number of rows you work in tubular knit is up to you; more rows means more of a section that is a tube. Then, continue in K1, P1 ribbing.
For K2, P2 Ribbing
Work through the directions to finish the tubular rows. Then, on the next row, you switch stitches to get 2 knits and 2 purls next to each other, as
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