Cast On, Bind Off by Leslie Ann Bestor Read Free Book Online
Authors: Leslie Ann Bestor
first chain. Wrap your working yarn around the tip and pull a stitch through. Repeat across the back of the chain until you have cast on the desired number of stitches. You may have extra crochet chain hanging down at the end; if so, just ignore it.
For how to pick up live stitches, see the box on page 115 .
Tubular Cast Ons
Tubular cast ons create an edge that appears to have no beginning to it; the stitches seem to just roll over the edge. They are extremely elastic in construction and are frequently used for ribbed edges, making them useful for hats, gloves, mittens, socks, and sweater cuffs that need a lot of stretch. They are called âtubularâ because the first few rows create a tube of knitting, with the knits and purls separated into front and back. This is accomplished by knitting every other stitch and slipping the ones in between, making two layers of fabric.
The needle size for tubular cast ons can be a little tricky. Many people recommend needles a size or two smaller than used for your ribbing to keep the bottom from flaring out. You want to make sure, though, that you donât tighten it up so much that you compromise the elasticity these cast ons are known for. My preference is to use the size needles called for in the ribbing. As with all new techniques, a little swatching will give you the answer.
The instructions in this section are for K1, P1 ribbing, but they can be easily modified for other ribbing patterns. The directions for creating K2, P2 ribbing at the end of this chapter (see page 135 ) are applicable to any of these cast ons.
Tubular
page 120
Provisional Tubular
page 123
Yarnover Tubular
page 127
Italian Tubular
page 132
Tubular Cast On
This edge starts with half the number of stitches needed cast on in waste yarn followed by four rows in stockinette in the main yarn color. You then increase by picking up stitches from your first row of main color knitting; this creates the tubular edge.
Extras Waste yarn
CHARACTERISTICS
⢠Stretchy edge
⢠Edge looks rolled over, seemingly without beginning
GOOD FOR
⢠K1, P1 ribbing
⢠Hats, gloves, mittens, socks, and cuffs
Working the Cast On
Using waste yarn and your choice of cast on method, cast on half the number of stitches you need. Cut the waste yarn. Work 4 rows stockinette in the main color: purl 1 row, knit 1 row, and repeat these 2 rows once more.
On the next row, purl the first stitch.
Reach the tip of the right-hand needle from top to bottom through the first purl bump of the main color yarn in the first row of main-color knitting 4 rows below.
Lift that stitch up and place it on the left-hand needle. Knit this stitch.
Purl the next stitch.
Repeat steps 3â5 across the row.
Beginning to Knit
Work K1, P1 ribbing as established (knit the knits and purl the purls). This is the first row of knitting. After several rows, snip and pull out the waste yarn.
Getting It Right
⢠Make sure your waste yarn is smooth and easy to pull out.
⢠Picking up the purl bumps can be a bit tricky, but if you have used a contrasting color for the waste yarn, you should be able to see them clearly.
Provisional Tubular Cast On
This method begins with the Provisional Cast On ( page 110 ) before starting the tubular rows. If you are already comfortable with the concept of provisional cast ons, this can be the easiest method to use for a tubular cast on. This is my favorite of the tubular cast ons, because I love the provisional base that starts it. I also like not having to pick up stitches (as in the previous Tubular Cast On) or do yarn overs (as in the next Yarnover Tubular Cast On). This cast on matches the Tubular Bind Off.
CHARACTERISTICS
⢠Stretchy edge
⢠Edge looks rolled over, seemingly without beginning
⢠Bulky yarn causes edges to flare out
GOOD FOR
⢠K1, P1 or K2, P2 ribbing
⢠Matching the Tubular Bind Off ( page 200 )
⢠Hats, gloves, mittens,
For how to pick up live stitches, see the box on page 115 .
Tubular Cast Ons
Tubular cast ons create an edge that appears to have no beginning to it; the stitches seem to just roll over the edge. They are extremely elastic in construction and are frequently used for ribbed edges, making them useful for hats, gloves, mittens, socks, and sweater cuffs that need a lot of stretch. They are called âtubularâ because the first few rows create a tube of knitting, with the knits and purls separated into front and back. This is accomplished by knitting every other stitch and slipping the ones in between, making two layers of fabric.
The needle size for tubular cast ons can be a little tricky. Many people recommend needles a size or two smaller than used for your ribbing to keep the bottom from flaring out. You want to make sure, though, that you donât tighten it up so much that you compromise the elasticity these cast ons are known for. My preference is to use the size needles called for in the ribbing. As with all new techniques, a little swatching will give you the answer.
The instructions in this section are for K1, P1 ribbing, but they can be easily modified for other ribbing patterns. The directions for creating K2, P2 ribbing at the end of this chapter (see page 135 ) are applicable to any of these cast ons.
Tubular
page 120
Provisional Tubular
page 123
Yarnover Tubular
page 127
Italian Tubular
page 132
Tubular Cast On
This edge starts with half the number of stitches needed cast on in waste yarn followed by four rows in stockinette in the main yarn color. You then increase by picking up stitches from your first row of main color knitting; this creates the tubular edge.
Extras Waste yarn
CHARACTERISTICS
⢠Stretchy edge
⢠Edge looks rolled over, seemingly without beginning
GOOD FOR
⢠K1, P1 ribbing
⢠Hats, gloves, mittens, socks, and cuffs
Working the Cast On
Using waste yarn and your choice of cast on method, cast on half the number of stitches you need. Cut the waste yarn. Work 4 rows stockinette in the main color: purl 1 row, knit 1 row, and repeat these 2 rows once more.
On the next row, purl the first stitch.
Reach the tip of the right-hand needle from top to bottom through the first purl bump of the main color yarn in the first row of main-color knitting 4 rows below.
Lift that stitch up and place it on the left-hand needle. Knit this stitch.
Purl the next stitch.
Repeat steps 3â5 across the row.
Beginning to Knit
Work K1, P1 ribbing as established (knit the knits and purl the purls). This is the first row of knitting. After several rows, snip and pull out the waste yarn.
Getting It Right
⢠Make sure your waste yarn is smooth and easy to pull out.
⢠Picking up the purl bumps can be a bit tricky, but if you have used a contrasting color for the waste yarn, you should be able to see them clearly.
Provisional Tubular Cast On
This method begins with the Provisional Cast On ( page 110 ) before starting the tubular rows. If you are already comfortable with the concept of provisional cast ons, this can be the easiest method to use for a tubular cast on. This is my favorite of the tubular cast ons, because I love the provisional base that starts it. I also like not having to pick up stitches (as in the previous Tubular Cast On) or do yarn overs (as in the next Yarnover Tubular Cast On). This cast on matches the Tubular Bind Off.
CHARACTERISTICS
⢠Stretchy edge
⢠Edge looks rolled over, seemingly without beginning
⢠Bulky yarn causes edges to flare out
GOOD FOR
⢠K1, P1 or K2, P2 ribbing
⢠Matching the Tubular Bind Off ( page 200 )
⢠Hats, gloves, mittens,
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