pepper, and a clove of puréed garlic. Season with a big pinch of Provençal herbs , and salt and pepper to taste. Continue sautéing several minutes over low heat, until peppers are tender.
Grated Sautéed Zucchini
For 1½ pounds, to serve 4. Grate the zucchini and toss in a colander with 1½ teaspoons salt; let steep 20 minutes. By handfuls, twist in the corner of a towel to extract juices. Sauté 1 tablespoon minced shallot briefly in a large frying pan with 2 tablespoons olive oil or butter, then add the zucchini and toss over high heat for 2 minutes or so, just until tender.
VARIATIONS
CREAMED ZUCCHINI. When tender, stir in ½ cup of heavy cream and let simmer until absorbed, then fold with a tablespoon of chopped parsley or tarragon.
GRATINÉED WITH CHEESE.
Grated Sautéed/Steamed Beets
For 1½ pounds beets, to serve 4. Peel and grate the beets. Toss them in a nonstick frying pan with 2 tablespoons melted butter. Add ¼ inch water and 1 teaspoon red-wine vinegar, and bring to simmer over medium heat for 1 minute, stirring. Cover, lower heat, and simmer about 10 minutes, adding more water if necessary, until beets are tender and liquid has evaporated. Swirl and toss with another tablespoon or so of butter, and season to taste.
VARIATION
TURNIPS, RUTABAGAS, AND CARROTS. Grate and sauté/steam the same way.
Brown Onion “Marmalade”
To make about ½ cup. Sauté 3 cups sliced onions slowly in 2 to 3 tablespoons butter for about 15 minutes, until tender and translucent. Raise heat and sauté 5 minutes or so more, stirring, until nicely browned.
BRAISED VEGETABLES
When vegetables need longer cooking, you braise them, meaning you cover them and let them steam in their own juices.
Braised Celery
Use ⅓ to ½ prepared celery heart per serving. Cut the celery hearts in halves or thirds lengthwise, depending on thickness; wash under cold running water. Lay cut side up in a buttered flameproof baking dish. Salt lightly, spread over each a teaspoon of mirepoix (see box below), and pour in chicken stock to a third of the way up. Bring to the simmer on top of the stove. Lay buttered wax paper over the celery, cover with foil, and cook in a 350°F oven 30 to 40 minutes, until tender. Pour juices into a saucepan and boil down until syrupy. Swirl in a tablespoon or so of butter and pour over the celery.
MIREPOIX—DICED AROMATIC VEGETABLES. To give extra flavor to braised meats and vegetables. For about ⅓ cup. Sauté gently for about 10 minutes ¼ cup each finely diced carrots, onions, and celery in 2 tablespoons butter with a pinch of thyme and, if you wish, ¼ cup diced ham. When tender, season lightly to taste.
VARIATION
BRAISED LEEKS. Use 1 fat or 2 thin trimmed leeks per serving. Cut fat leeks in half lengthwise; leave thin ones whole. Place cut side up in one layer in a buttered baking dish, and proceed as for the braised celery, but omit the mirepoix.
Braised Endives
For 10 endives, to serve 5 to 10. Trim root ends of endives, keeping leaves attached. Arrange in one layer in a buttered flameproof casserole. Salt lightly, distribute 1½ tablespoons butter in small pieces on top, and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Pour in water to come halfway up, and bring to the boil on top of the stove. Boil slowly for 15 minutes, or until almost tender. Lay buttered wax paper over the endives, cover the casserole, and bake in a 325°F oven for 1½ to 2 hours, or until the endives are a pale buttery yellow.
Sweet and Sour Red Cabbage
Serves 4 or 5. Sauté 1 cup red-onion slices in a large saucepan with 2 to 3 tablespoons of butter or oil or pork fat until tender. Blend in 4 cups of shredded red cabbage, a grated sour apple, 2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar, a puréed garlic clove, a bay leaf, ½ teaspoon caraway seeds, 1 teaspoon sugar, salt, pepper, and ½ cup water. Cover and boil over high heat for about 10 minutes, tossing occasionally and adding more water if necessary, until cabbage is tender and