couldnât bear the force of her rushing water. Enormous slabs of rock bearing images like this stand scattered among the groups of temples. Unlike the old temples in the city that are still used for worship, these lie deserted. It feels as if somethingâs missingâincense, chants, and people circling the shrines. Ashwin wanders in awe around the massive feet of a carved stone elephant. Next to it he looks tiny.
And then I come face-to-face with a panel that takes my breath away. âMahishasuramardhini,â says our guide proudly. âGoddess Durga defeats evil.â The pinkish stone of the giant carved wall gleams in the sunlight. Was it once the wall of yet another temple now in ruins? No one knows. The goddess is slender, almost a girl. One of her many arms pulls back the
string of a bow, training the arrow upon her victim. She rides a curly-maned lion. Each of her hands holds part of an armoryâknives, clubs, spears, a trident, a whirling discus. A massive demon rises to confront her. His heavy club is raised in readiness. Horns spring from his water-buffalo head.
âFifty paise for your thoughts,â says Sumati.
I shake my head. âThatâs powerful stuff.â
She nods. âTake a picture of it.â
I do. The slight stone figure holds me spellbound. Every fold of her robe is delicately sculpted. A tassel dangles from a necklace, swinging away from her graceful body as she aims her arrow. Other figures in the panel shrink back from the two in the middle, making way for the final scene. You know the demon doesnât stand a chance.
âMami told me this story,â I say.
âYouâre named for a goddess too,â says Sumati.
âMe? No, Iâm named for Buddhaâs mother. Canât imagine why.â
âSilly,â says Sumati patiently, âwho do you think Buddhaâs mother was named for?â Oh. Thatâs a new one. She explains it to slow American me. âOne of Deviâs names is Mahamaya. Maha means great, yeah? Well, sheâs supposed to have come down to earth and put the army of this wicked king, Kamsa, to sleep.
Then she takes the form of a baby girl, because heâs looking for another babyâthe infant Krishna. So Kamsa finds her, and then the goddess goes back to her true form.â Sumati slams a fist dramatically into the palm of her other hand. âJust like that,â she says. âNo more Kamsa.â
I know about Krishna, of course, from Culture Campâblueâskinned, naughty Krishna, who was really the god Vishnu, who stole butter from the milkmaids. Iâd heard of the wicked king. But I didnât know the goddess played a part. And no oneâs given me this quick-time version before.
âSee?â Sumati smiles. âMaya is not just any old name.â She likes it better than her own name. âSumati is so ordinary,â she says.
I tell her about the Great Name War when I was born. How Thatha called me Maya and Dadâs parents called me Preeta. âThey came to visit us once a year,â I say. âWell, until my parents split up. And every single time Dad shouted and Mom cried. But they brought me lots of presents, and we always went out to dinner and the zoo and movies when they came.â
âAnd they called you Preeta? What did you want to be called?â
âI donât know,â I say. âSometimes I liked Preeta. Sometimes I didnât.â
âMaybe the name thing wasnât about you at all,â Sumati points out. âMaybe it was your mom they didnât like? You know what I mean? So whatever she liked, theyâd make sure they liked something else.â
I have never thought about it that way before. Sumati goes on, âBut thatâs their problem, right? Not yours. Maybe itâs not so bad having two names. That way you get to choose.â
What would the goddess say? She has thousands of names, and thousands of