Raising A Soul Surfer

Raising A Soul Surfer by Rick Bundschuh, Cheri Hamilton Read Free Book Online

Book: Raising A Soul Surfer by Rick Bundschuh, Cheri Hamilton Read Free Book Online
Authors: Rick Bundschuh, Cheri Hamilton
Southeast Asia was a distant annoyance that took a backseat to what was happening in Cuba and the arms-and-space-race with Russia. But what seemed only to be a slow cooking “police action” began heating up under LBJ as more Americans were shipped overseas, and more were sent back in flag-draped boxes.
    More than any other war or conflict since the U.S. Civil War, Vietnam divided America. The politics, the protests . . . the fabric of the nation that had been woven so tightly by the preceding generations was suddenly coming unraveled.
    By 1968, the country was in turmoil over the policies that spawned the war, over the point of the war and its cost, and there was an ever-deepening mistrust in the government. It seemed like every person under 30 was busy squaring off in rowdy and, sometimes, violent confrontation against anyone seen as “The Establishment.”
    It was a time of counterculture and conflicting ideology. People questioned what it meant to be a patriot; they questioned America’s purpose. I was in the sixth grade when, one day after school, I answered a knock at the door. There I saw two men in black, complete with government-issue sunglasses. The men identified themselves with their FBI badges and asked to see my father. He was home for the day after teaching American history, and the agents informed him that he was to not talk negatively to his students about America’s involvement in Vietnam.
    Tom has always told me that he was oblivious to any of this. His whole world was surfing—a world far removed from politics, protests, wars and all its horrors. Perhaps he was unusual for a young man of his generation, but Tom thought, talked and dreamed of nothing but surfing.
    So it was with dread that he pulled the slim, official-looking letter out of his mailbox. The words “selective service” above a notification to present himself to the United States military induction center in Philadelphia for a physical suddenly brought that wider world rushing in upon him.
    Tom’s friends told him not to worry; the Army doctors would most likely reject him. Not only did he have bad eyes, flat feet and a hammertoe (which made wearing military boots and hiking for long periods of time unfeasible), but like other surfers of that era, he also had “surfer’s knots” on his knees and feet. These were large, protruding calcium deposits that developed as a result of extended kneeling on a hard surface. (Even the apostle James wasnicknamed “old camel knees” by the Early Church because he reputedly spent so much time on his knees in prayer!)
    Before shortboards, surfers used to paddle on their knees, with their feet tucked up underneath them. Today’s surfers lie prone because the small size of surfboards do not facilitate knee paddling. Back then, those knots were an insider’s mark of dedication to surfing. And they were also usually a ticket out of military service.
    Most Army doctors had never seen a surf knot, and so the first batch of surfers to show up for an induction physical were stamped 4-F—physically unfit for military service. Of course, most of the surfers appreciated the irony of being rejected, and certainly they weren’t letting on that this mysterious affliction that marred an otherwise fit and athletic-looking man would shrink harmlessly away after a few months off the surfboard.
    Bolstered by these assertions of a 4-F stamp, Tom waited for the date of his physical and drove the 70 miles to Philadelphia. The induction center was jammed with guys like him, all 18 to 20 years old. Tom filled out a few forms and was ushered into a room where he was given a multiple-page test that started with a basic problem such as drawing a line from the picture of a screwdriver to the object that matched it; nut, nail or screw.
    Of course, whole rows of guys intentionally answered every question wrong, thus guaranteeing themselves a position in the infantry. Tom answered the questions honestly, trusting in his

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