Saveur: The New Comfort Food by James Oseland Read Free Book Online Page B

recently, I hadn’t been back in over a decade. I was sad to learn that the Fonsecas had passed away, but relieved to find their son Roy at the helm. After all those years, very little had changed. Neighborhood kids were stopping in for a pack of Bubble Yum; sleepy-eyed art students and guys from the auto body shop down the street filled the tables; and the platillo de huevos rancheros that I ordered was still the most fortifying breakfast around.
    —James Oseland

Matzo Brei with Mushrooms and Asparagus

    Simple and soulful, this scramble of eggs and matzo is a breakfast staple in many Jewish households, particularly during the Passover holiday, when leavened breads are off limits. We’ve added sautéed mushrooms and asparagus, but you could just as well leave them out and serve the matzo brei as you might pancakes or French toast, with a topping of jam or maple syrup.
8 asparagus tips
    4 tbsp. unsalted butter
    8 cremini mushrooms, stemmed and cut into sixths Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
    3 6-inch square pieces matzo
    5 eggs, lightly beaten
    1 tbsp. minced flat-leaf parsley, for garnish (optional)
    Serves 2
    1. Bring 8 cups of water to a boil in a 4-qt. pot. Add the asparagus and cook until just tender, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the asparagus to a bowl of ice water, reserving the boiling water. Let the asparagus chill for about 5 minutes, then drain and set aside.
    2. Heat 2 tbsp. butter in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 6 minutes. Add the asparagus, season with salt and pepper, and remove the pan from heat; set aside.
    3. Break the matzo into 1-inch pieces and transfer to a strainer set over the sink. Slowly pour the reserved boiling water over the matzo to soften it; let the matzo sit for 4 minutes.
    4. Transfer the softened matzo to a bowl, add the eggs, and combine. Heat the remaining butter in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the matzo mixture, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook, turning the mixture occasionally with a rubber spatula, until cooked to the desired doneness, about 4 minutes for soft curds. Divide the matzo mixture between 2 plates, top with the reserved mushrooms and asparagus, garnish with the parsley, and serve.

Baked Ziti with Sausage

    In Italian-American homes and red-sauce restaurants alike, this dish has remained a standby for generations. The ingredients are simple and the proportions generous, forming layer upon layer of pasta, beef ragù, creamy béchamel, and a beautifully browned topping of melted mozzarella and Parmigiano-Reggiano. This recipe calls for sweet Italian sausage to boost the flavor of the meaty filling, but it works well with spicy sausage, too.
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
    1 lb. sweet Italian sausages, removed from casings and broken into ½ -inch chunks
    1 medium carrot, minced
    1 medium onion, minced
    1 rib celery, minced
    1½ lbs. ground beef chuck
    ½ cup dry red wine
    2 tbsp. tomato paste
    1 28-oz. can whole peeled tomatoes, undrained and puréed
    3 tbsp. minced flat-leaf parsley Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
    5 tbsp. unsalted butter
    5 tbsp. flour
    2½ cups milk
    ¼ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
    1½ lbs. pasta, preferably ziti
    2½ cups coarsely grated mozzarella cheese
    ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
    Serves 10
    1. To make the meat sauce: Heat the oil in a 6-qt. pot over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned, 8–10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the sausage to a plate and set aside. Add the carrots, onions, and celery and cook, stirring often, until soft and golden brown, about 15 minutes. Add the beef and cook, stirring and breaking it up with a wooden spoon, until browned, 8–10 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring frequently, for about 2 minutes.