garnish: Put the cucumbers into a bowl. Sprinkle with the salt, let stand 1 hour, then drain off the liquid. Return to the bowl. Stir the vinegar and sugar in a bowl until the sugar dissolves; mix with the parsley and dill; pour over the cucumbers and mix. Refrigerate until serving.
When ready to serve, remove the plastic wrap from the mold; loosen the edges with a knife or spatula, dip the top of the mold in hot water for a second or two to release it, then invert onto a serving platter. Drain the marinated cucumbers. Put them in the center of the molded ring. Serve chilled.
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Editor: Ham broth is simply a meaty ham bone, simmered in water to cover with 1 each chopped onion, carrot, and celery for a couple of hours until the broth is rich and flavorful, and strained. It can also be used as the cooking liquid for split pea soup.
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PÂTÉ DE CAMPAGNE
MAKES 12 TO 16 SERVINGS
A delicious country pâté, easy to make and always welcome.
2 pounds pork shoulder, well trimmed, very coarsely chopped
2 pounds trimmed and ground pork liver
2 pounds fresh pork fatback, cut into ½-inch dice
¾ pound ground veal
3 large eggs, beaten
1 ⁄ 3 cup Cognac or bourbon
6 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon dried basil
1 tablespoon kosher salt, as needed
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 ⁄ 8 teaspoon each ground cloves, ground ginger, freshly grated nutmeg, and freshly ground white pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 pound sliced bacon or salt pork, for the baking dish
Sliced crusty bread, Dijon mustard, and cornichons, for serving
Combine all the pork shoulder, pork liver, fatback, veal, eggs, Cognac, garlic, basil, salt, black pepper, cloves, ginger, nutmeg, and white pepper in a large bowl. To check the seasoning, sauté a small patty—about 1 tablespoon—in hot melted butter in a skillet until cooked through. Cool and taste; you may want to add a bit more salt.
Line a good-sized straight-sided terrine with the bacon. A 2½-quart soufflé dish, heavy pottery dish, or a large round Pyrex dish are also ideal. Fill with the mixture and form a well-rounded top. Place a few strips of bacon over the top, and bake in a preheated 325°F oven for 2 to 2½ hours. I always cover it with a sheet of aluminum foil for the first hour or so of cooking. The pâté will pull away from the sides a bit when done.
Remove from the oven and let cool. After 30 minutes, put a foil-wrapped rectangle of wood or heavy cardboard cut to fit the inside of the terrine (or a plate or a baking dish) on the pâté, and weigh it down with a few heavy cans of food. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and refrigerate overnight on a plate. Serve from the terrine or dish cut in generous slices with a sharp, heavy knife.
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Editor: When making pâté at home, the food processor will be your best friend. See the Note here for how to prepare the pork shoulder. Pork liver does not need to be frozen. It should be trimmed of any tough matter, cut into 1-inch chunks, and processed into a coarse purée.
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CHINESE GINGER AND PORK BALLS
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
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Editor: This recipe is from Helen Evans Brown, Beard’s frequent collaborator. Serve these as an appetizer with drinks or a main course with rice and Asian greens. If you want a dip for these, go retro with soy sauce, hot Chinese mustard, and/or duck sauce.
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1 pound ground pork
½ cup drained minced water chestnuts
2 tablespoons minced scallions, white parts only
1 large egg, beaten
1 tablespoon peeled and grated fresh ginger
1 tablespoon soy sauce
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ cup dried cracker crumbs, as needed
Cornstarch, for rolling the balls
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
Mix the pork, water chestnuts, scallion, egg, ginger, soy sauce, and salt in a bowl. Mix in enough cracker crumbs to make a mixture that can be easily shaped into balls. Form into walnut-size balls. Roll the balls in cornstarch. Pour enough oil into a large heavy-bottomed saucepan to come halfway up the sides. Heat over high