Name the time and place, Miss Grey.â
Sheila hesitated. It seemed to Dane that she found herself in a dilemma. That means Iâm not repulsive to her, he thought; and he felt a tingle suddenly.
âIf youâre really interested in my work, in the whole area of fashion ⦠Tell you what, Mr. McKell. Why donât you plan to get here a bit earlier Monday? Say, at noon? Then we can go over some of the basic things.â
âWonderful,â said Dane. âYou canât know what this means to me, Miss Grey. Monday at noon, then. Aunt Sarah?â
âOh, you two do like each other,â cried Mrs. Vernier, glowing.
Dane had been normally aware that women wore clothes and that their creation was a matter of considerably more moment than, say, the designing of a nuclear flattop. He knew vaguely that there was rivalry between the Continental and American dress houses, and that it resulted in a secrecy that made the answer to Does Macyâs tell Gimbelâs? meekly affirmative. But he was hardly prepared to find Pinkerton guards standing watch over every nook and cranny of Sheila Greyâs establishment except the salon itself.
âItâs almost like the CIA!â he exclaimed.
The comparison was not inexact. In a hugely different degree, on an infinitely smaller scale, the behind-the-scenes scenes of high fashion did have a faint air of the Pentagon gone mad. Men with the dedicated look of the career idealist, women who gave the impression of having studied at the secretive feet of Mata Hari, zealous underlings of the three sexes, and assorted females who could have been camp followers, sat poring over plans, screwed up their tired eyes at sketches, moved from office to office in zombi-like withdrawal; they examined swatches as if the bits of material were secret weapons, and peered with tucked-in lips at lovely young models who, for all the excitement their beauty generated, might have been made of plastic. Here clothes were the only living things.
âAnd this is an annual event?â Dane asked.
âYes. Let me show you.â Dane followed Sheila, attending her litanyâMarc Bohan of Dior, Crahay of Nina Ricci, Castillo of Lanvin (like so many medieval saints, or feudatories, or even Isaac of York or Macdonald of the Isles), Cardin, Chanel, Jacques Heim, Balmain, Goma, Vernet, and the all but hallowed Yves St. Laurent. From Sheilaâs tone, Dane gathered that St. Laurent could cure scrofula by a laying on of hands.
âAnd thatâs just France,â Sheila was saying.
He was actually taking notes.
âItâs like wine,â Sheila explained. âAny reasonable Frenchman will admit that certain French wines are inferior to their American counterparts. But weâre such snobs! Weâd rather tipple a mediocre vintage with a French label than a first-rate California. Itâs the same with clothes. All right, St. Laurent is tops. But itâs not because heâs French, itâs because heâs St. Laurent. Another thing that blows me sky-high is the women who wonât wear a gown unless itâs designed by a man. It makes me want to spit!â
âIt becomes you,â said Dane. It did, too; anger put color into her cheeks, and a sparkle in her eyes that made them flash.
She stopped herself with one of her fresh, quick laughs. âLetâs go to lunch.â
âI had forgotten lunch could be fun,â Sheila Grey said. âThank you, Mr. McKell.â
âCould you make it Dane?â
âDane. Are you sure youâre writing a book with a designer-character in it?â
âWhy would you doubt it?â
âI suppose I donât care for people with hidden motives.â She laughed. âIâm always on the watch.â
âThe only hidden motive I could have would be very personal, and I canât imagine any woman resenting that.â
âAt this point,â said Sheila, rising, âIâve