dressed for a day out at the races: a flowery shirt, a gold chain with the Moroccan star which heaved up and down with his snores, gold rings on his fingers, heavy dark sunglasses hiding his eyes.
I looked around. Old Moroccan furnishings â all heavy wood. Once-luxuriant brushed velvet upholstery â now dust-ridden and showing serious signs of neglect. There was a loud 1920s railway-station clock hanging next to the reception area: a clock which counted off each passing second with an ominous click. And there was a half-starved cat on top of the reception counter, eyeing us warily: intruders, outsiders, here to disturb the soporific order of things.
As we approached the counter where the old man was asleep, Paul took the initiative, whispering â
Monsieur
â, then raising his voice several decibels with each additional rendition of â
Monsieur
â. When this proved pointless I tapped the hotel bell near the open guest register. Its loud clang jolted him back to life, the shock on his face coupled with bemusement, as if he didnât know where he was. As he tried to adjust his gaze Paul said:
âSorry to have woken you so abruptly. But we did try . . .â
âYou have a reservation?â
âYes.â
âName?â
Paul gave him this information. The man stood up and, using the index finger on each hand, spun the register around towards him. He peered at todayâs page, then rifled back through several more, shaking his head, muttering to himself.
âYou have no reservation,â he finally said.
âBut I made one,â Paul said.
âYou received confirmation from us?â
âOf course. I made it on the Internet.â
âYou have a copy of the confirmation?â
Paul looked sheepish. âForgot to print it,â he whispered to me.
âSurely if you went online,â I said, âyouâd find it.â
âI think I deleted it.â
I stopped myself from saying: âNot again.â Paul was always clearing out old mail and frequently removed essential correspondences.
âBut you still have rooms?â I asked the guy behind the desk.
âYes and no.â
He now picked up an ancient house phone â of the sort that seemed to belong in some movie set during the German occupation â and started speaking Arabic in a loud, fractious voice. This was something I was beginning to notice: how Arabic was often a language declaimed in a stentorian manner, making it seem aggressive, swaggering, bordering on the hostile. It reminded me that I should really resuscitate my still-reasonable, if rusty, French while here; something Iâd been promising myself to do ever since leaving Montreal behind.
The desk clerk finished his conversation. Turning back to us he said:
âMy colleague, he gets the owner now.â
We had to wait ten minutes for the arrival of the man in charge. His name was Monsieur Picard. He was French, in his mid-fifties, short, fit, dressed in a crisp white shirt and tan trousers, formal, chilly; his face reflecting, I sensed, a lifetime of enforced diffidence and the dodging of emotion.
âThere seems to be a problem?â he asked, his tone borderline supercilious.
âWe booked a room, but you donât seem to have a record of it,â Paul said.
âDo you have the confirmation?â Monsieur Picard asked.
Paul shook his head.
âNor do we. So a reservation mustnât have been made.â
âBut I made the reservation . . .â Paul said.
âClearly not.â
âWell, you do have rooms, yes?â I asked.
âHas not Ahmed here told you that we have just one room free?â
âAnd how much does that cost?â
âIt is a room with a balcony and a sea view. And you will need it for how long?â
âA month,â Paul said. âThatâs what we booked it for.â
Monsieur Picard pursed his lips, then turned to Ahmed. He directed him in