guys who was a part of my settlement who loves to follow this stuff said that Ramónâs been suing the Church, acting as his own counsel. He said they were going to nail him on vexatious litigation, but Ramón doesnât give a shit. I have to admit, the kidâs got heart. The diocese in Covington eventually forked over $200,000 per plaintiff. It ainât the lottery but itâs better than whatever Ramón got. But he seems to land on his feet. I wonât start worrying until I get a postcard from Club Med.
Can you hear the rain?
Thereâhear it now?
A big stormâs coming.
How grateful I am to God for making Big Sur!
Big Sur took me back, you know. Spit me out once, and broke me too. But took me back . . .
Itâs really the strangest place. You can
not
come here to be healed. Thatâs the mistake most people make. Big Sur does
not
feel your pain; it doesnât even notice your awe. Itâs easy to leave here worse than you came. Those who do best are the ones who allow themselves to be erased.
The waves were tall as buildings today, did you see them? Before we met, I parked the van on a turn-out near Bixby Canyon, a half-mile from one of the dizzying, drizzled bridges, towering and hallowed, jaundiced and strangeâforgive my poor poetry, but the topic always gets me talking like a foolâtheir stony span and scope otherworldly, like something from a Piranesi etching. I sat and meditated on the placeâBig Surâand had the revelation that something about it was
wrong
, which I suppose is the normal human reaction to the unknowable. The sea
distorted
everything, and set off a chain reaction that charged and changed the very molecules of the air itself, the landscape too, until nothing resembled anything ever seen before . . . you couldnât put your finger on it except to say it was
wrong.
Those waves: at times they rolled north to south, contrary to Godâs order, like mischievous ghosts running alongside the shore instead of crashing into itârats through a witchâs wet hair! And there I was stuck staring, like a child hidden in the shadows watching the forbidden rites of some malevolent cultus supervised by the impetuous, unforgiving, predatory chorus of those waves, the whole scene so majestically wrong, a sacred, supererogatory mess, and
me
, struck dumb by an unnamable, eons- old sorrow . . . the permanent impermanence of water engagedâenragedâin ancient, secret activity. The waves took the shape of hunchbacked buffaloes, bristle-foamed brides and grooms in tumbling betrothal, spewing and spuming their vows, exchanged in a cauldron of blackness, each driven in succession by the taskmaster moon to spawn upon the shore then freeze upon reaching itâsudden death upon sand and rock. If that membrane of water could speak it would plash
âI go no further no further I go,â
slipping back to primordial jellyfishâd infancy, hibernating in Silence before rearing up again, slowly then speedily, all gaudy and cocky, imperious, thundering its bouillabaisse of white noise! Then: all business againâalways, again and again and again all businessâthe business of predatory indifferenceâin poised, crashing lunge, snatching what it can of my comfort. Endlessly watchable, I watch,
we
watch, so easily mesmerized by artful anarchy, the mindless, mindful in-and-outness of it, for what else is there but in-and-outness, anarchy, death and indifference? But Jack already said it all, didnât he? In the âocean soundsâ poem at the end of
Big Sur.
âOne day, I will find the words, and they will be simple.â Thatâs Jack too, from one of his letters . . .
I looked up at the Heavens, supreme and resplendent with dark latticed clouds and found nothing truthful in Dr. Williamsâ neatly turned phrase âan excrement of some sky.â For the smallest part of this one, the