longans, whose glossy seeds often serve as a metaphor for a pretty girlâs eyes, and rambutans, with their red peel and hairy surface like a sea urchin, but soft to the touch.
My Vietnamese-style banana cake was delicious, but it looked frightening, sturdy and uncouth as it was. In no time, Philippe softened it with foamy caramel made from raw cane sugar. Thus he married East and West, as with the cake with whole bananas fitted into baguette dough soaked in coconut milk and cowâs milk. Five hoursâ baking at a low temperature forced the bread to play a protective role for the fruit as the bananas slowly delivered up the sugar in theirflesh. Anyone lucky enough to taste that cake freshly baked could see, when cutting it, the crimson of the bananas embarrassed at being caught in the act.
mà u
colour
PHILIPPE ENHANCED AND ENNOBLED the desserts that the Vietnamese call simply by the number of colours in the ingredients:
chè
three colours,
chè
five colours,
chè
seven colours. Each merchant has her own interpretation of the dessert, which is usually eaten as a snack on the sidewalk at a corner, sitting on a small stool when school lets out, or between two destinations with friends. I think that meeting someone for
chè
usually means a date in a café, except that there itâs made with blends of mung bean paste, tapioca in the shape of pomegranate seeds, red beans, black-eyed peas or the fruit of the nipa palm, all topped with a mountain of crushed ice. A good many secrets were shared between two spoonfuls of
chè
and a good many love affairs were born in that place, which often had no address.
In our workshop, when they tasted Philippeâs creations, the clientsâ confidences scented the air, and sometimes they kissed passionately as if they were alone, set back from time. I had never seen people so much in love so close up before. Nor had I ever heard âI love youâ spoken aloud, as Julie did every day. She never hung up the phone without saying âI love youâ to her husband and her daughter. I sometimes tried to put into words my gratitude towards Julie, but I was never really successful. I could only show my affection through everyday acts, such as preparing for her, during her numerous appointments and before she even felt the urge, the lime soda sheadored, or by unplugging the phones in her office when I made her take a fifteen-minute nap, or by rubbing a turmeric root on a freshly healed sore to prevent it from scarring. I thanked heaven when I had the chance to look after her daughter for five, seven or ten days so she could join her husband in Turkey, Japan or Sri Lanka. I could offer her only my friendship, because Julie lacked nothing, she had so much to give and she gave everything to everyone. She was a merchant of happiness.
mùa
season
THEY SAY THAT HAPPINESS cannot be bought. What I learned from Julie is that on its own, happiness multiplies, is shared, and adapts to each of us. It was within that happiness that the years accumulated one after another, paying no attention to calendar or seasons. I could not say at what moment exactly Há»ng took the helm of the restaurant kitchen. I only know that, very early one morning, I opened my eyes and saw a world so perfect it made me dizzy. Beside me, my husbandâs face was pressed into the pillow, rested, peaceful, and wrapped in a nearly palpable film of calm and stillness. In the adjacent rooms, my children were fast asleep. I had the impression I could hear their dreams, where even the monsters seem playful or are transformed into gentlemen. Maman had chosen her domain at the end of the corridor joining the two apartments. She involved herself in the childrenâs homework as rigorously as a substitute teacher. I often caught her smiling discreetly when they called her
Bà Ngoại
, maternal grandmother. During school hours, she insisted on helping Há»ng in the kitchen and refused to