partyâs a party.â
âI donât like having to make conversation with people I didnât pick myself.â
âPeople might steal your stuff.â
âIâm not telling you anything from now on.â Mother wiped her fingertips on a paper napkin printed with green grapes, taken from a pile in the center of the table. âWe need something cheerful around here. A harvest party is what we need. Turkeys lined up down the length of the dining room table. Doesnât it sound fun?â
âItâs too hot. Grandmaâs parties were in the fall.â
âOh, Ingrid, youâre really a buzzkill.â
âI thought you were poor.â
âNot too poor for a harvest party.â She swept her fingers again and again across the paper napkin. âWith absolutely everyone. A party like your grandmother used to give.â
âAre you going to roast a lamb on a spit?â
âDonât be sarcastic.â
Every Easter, my fatherâs parents really had roasted a lamb on a spit. They had learned it from the Greeks who owned the land next door. âThere are going to be many more harvests, Mom. We donât need to have a party this summer.â
âBut why not this summer? Or we could wait until the fall. But by the fall youâll be busy, youâll be gone.â
âAll right, if you like, this summer.â
âAfter I find the keys to the silver.â
Â
5.
The heat did not slow down and the drought kept up and the grapes grew plump. Dadâs grapes, fed largely by well water and protected by riparian rights and not wholly dependent on the water districts, grew especially plump. Vines love a little bit of stress. The grapes would get us through another year after all.
There had been earlier seasons when Dad grew a few thousand acres of Thompson grapes and sold them as fruit or laid them out to dry, but table grapes and raisins werenât as profitable as the cabernet, and many years ago he had ripped out half the Thompsons and put in wine grapes. Heâd left a thousand acres of Thompsons in the vineyards surrounding the house, because big green grapes reflect more light on the vine. Thompsons were part of Mother and Dadâs landscape.
Now, apparently, they were making wine from the table grapes.
It was the middle of July, and Dad liked to pick early, so the fruit would have a little less sugar than usual but thereâd be no chance of the grapes being ruined by rain or late-season bugs or an unexpected spike in heat that could spoil them. Under Uncle Felixâs high-Brix plan, the Thompsons had at least another couple weeks to hang. They already tasted delicious to me, and those first few days and then weeks I was back home, neither working nor pretending to work, I liked to walk up and down the vines like I did when I was little and pick the ripest fruit direct from the sun-warm bunches.
I took Motherâs little black Jaguar through the dusty squares of the ranch toward Madera and found Dad riding his tractor through the vines of cabernet, the grapes he would sell to Uncle Felix just before the fall set in. Cabernet doesnât thrive in the Central Valley except on a few thousand acres of Dadâs land, land that originally had peaches, and then Thompson seedless, and then, in the past twenty years, cabernet. The climate throughout the valley is too dry and too hot for it. Syrah does well, and merlot does fine, and for a long time those varieties had been shipped to Napa and Sonoma, but cab is more of a challenge. The grapes need moisture and cooler temperatures. Forty years ago, after Dad had inherited his original hundred acres but while he was still scrubbing tanks at Mello to support the farm, he started buying small parcels of land along the river, cheap land no one else really wanted; the humidity and the slightly lower temperatures can be dangerous for peaches or citrus or nuts. Some of this cheap and useless land,